Kenmore 385. 18630890 Service Manual
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Kenmore 385. 18630890 Service Manual

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SERVICE MANUAL
SEWING MACHINE MODEL
385. 18630890
JUNE, 1998

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Summary of Contents for Kenmore 385. 18630890

  • Page 1 SERVICE MANUAL SEWING MACHINE MODEL 385. 18630890 JUNE, 1998...

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    CONTENTS LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS ............. WHAT TO DO WHEN ................. THREADING OF MACHINE ..............SERVICEACCESS FACE COVER ..............IOP COVER ..............BASE PLATE ............... BED COVER ..............BELTCOVER ..............FREE ARM COVER ..............FRONT COVER ..............REAR PANEL ..............MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TOP TENSION ..............

  • Page 3: Locate And Identifythe Parts

    SEWING MACHINE D IV20 MODEL 3 85,18630890 LOCATE AND IDENTIFYTHE PARTS Thread Spool Pin Upper Thread Guide Bobbin Wlndlng Spindle Stitch Width Setting Display Stitch Width Control Top thread Tension Stitch Length Control Face Guide Display "_ontrol Hook Speed Range Switch Extension table (Accessory storage...

  • Page 4: What To Do When

    SEWING MACHINE DIV20 MODEL 385_ 18630890 WHAT TO DO WHEN CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE INSERT THENEEDLEPROPERLY. I, SKIPPING 1. NEEDLEISNOr INSERTED STITCHES PROPERLY. 2. NEEDLEISBENTOR WORN. CHANGE THENEEDLE 3o INCORRECTLYTHREADED. RETHREAD. 4. NEEDLEOR THREADARE USETHE RECOMMENDED INAPPROPRIAIE FOR SDNING NEEDLEAND THREAD FABRIC BEING SEWN.
  • Page 5 SEWING MACHINE D IV.20 MODEL 3 85.18630890 CONDITION CAUSE HOW TOFIX REFERENCE START WITH MEDIUM S PEED. 3oBREAKING 1. INITIAL SEWING SPEED IS UPPER TOO FAST. THREAD THREAD P ATH IS USE T HE PROPER THREAD INCORRECT. PATH. NEEDLE tSBENT O RDULL. REPLACE WITH ANEW NEEDLE ADJUST UPPER THREAD...
  • Page 6 SEWING MACHINE D IV.20 MODEL 3 85,18630890 CONDITION CAUSE HOW TOFIX REFERENCE 1_ BACKLASH BETWEEN SEE M ECHANICAL 6= NOISY OPERATION SHUTTLE HOOK GEAR AND ADJUSTMENT "BACKLASH LOWER S HAFT GEAR tSTOC (LOWER SHAFT GEAR)." GREAT. 2.LOWER SHAFT GEAR IS EUM1NATE THE LOOSENESS.

  • Page 7: Threading Of Machine

    SEWING MACHINE D IV,20 MODEL 3 85_ 18630890 THREADING OF MACHINE THE NUMBERED STEPSBELOW FOLLOW THE NUMBERS ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS, DoI-rED LINESSHOW PLACES WHERE LOOPS AND THEN ISPULLED TIGHT, RAISE THE TAKE-UP LEVER TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION BY TURNING THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU.

  • Page 8: Serviceaccess

    SEWING MACHINE DIV20 MODEL 3 85 18630890 SERVICE ACCESS FACE COVER OPEN THE FACE COVER (A) REMOVE THE SET SCREWS (B). TAKE THE FACE COVER (A) OFF. COVER (11)) OPEN THE FACE COVER (A). REMOVE SETSCREWS (B) AND (C). "fAKE THE TOP COVER (D) OFF, * WHEN YOU REPLACE THE TOP COVER, SET THE PROJECTION (E) INTO THE...

  • Page 9: Baseplate

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 3 85 t8630890 SERVICE ACCESS BASEPLATE REMOVE 4 SET SCREWS (A)_ REMOVE THE BASE PLATE (B)_ BED COVER REMOVE 2 SET SCREWS (D), REMOVE THE BED COVER (E) * WHEN YOU REPLACE THE BED COVER, SET THE DROP LEVER (F) IN THE LEFT POSITION,...

  • Page 10: Beltcover

    SEWING MACHINE DtV.20 MODEL 3 85,]8630890 SERVICE ACCESS BELT COVER BELTCOVER LATCH LOOSEN SET SCREW (A) AND REMOVE SET SCREW (B). PULL THE RIGHT SIDE OF BELT COVER tN THE DIRECTION OF ARROW, AS ILLUSTRATED AND TAKE THE LATCH OFF, THEN REMOVE THE BELT COVER. WHEN YOU ATTACH THE BELTCOVER, SETTHE PROJECTION INTO THE GROOVE OF THE FRONT COVER, FREEARM COVER...

  • Page 11: Front Cover

    SEWING MACHINE D tV.20 MODEL 3 85 18630890 SERVICE ACCESS FRONI COVER ® _PEEDRANGE SWITCH OPEN THE FACE COVER. REMOVE THE TOP COVER (SEE P.6), THE BELT COVER, (SEE P,8) REMOVE SET SCREW (A). (B). LOOSEN SET SCREWS (C), (D) THEN REMOVE THE FRONT COVER (E), PULLTHE FRONT COVER OFF THE LATCH (F) OF THE REAR COVER.

  • Page 12: Rear Panel

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 3 85,18630890 SERVICE ACCESS REAR PANEL _7"_ PRESSERFOOT LEVER TWIST AND REMOVE THE ARM COVER PART FROM THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER, REAR PANEL UNIT OPEN THE FACE COVER REMOVE THE TOP COVER UNIT (SEE P,6), THE BELt' COVER (SEE P,8) AND THE FRONT COVER.

  • Page 13: Mechanical Adjustment

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 3 85.18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TOP TENSION TO CHECK: SEt"THE TENSION DIAL AT "4 "AND RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT. 2_ PASS THE THREAD (A) BEIWEEN THE DISCS AND DRAW THE THREAD (A) DOWN AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER AS IN FiG. 1. LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT AND BRING THE THREAD (A) UP.

  • Page 14: Presser Bar Height And Alignment

    SEWING MACHINE DIV_20 MODEL 3 85,18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT PRESSER BAR I'|EIGHT AND ALIGNMENT TO CHECK: RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER (B), THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE ZIGZAG FOOT (,A) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE (C) SHOULD BE 6.0 MM (0.24")_ " IF THIS IS NOT THE CASE, ADJUST AS FOLLOWS. ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: OPEN THE FACE COVER...

  • Page 15: Needle Swing

    SEWING MACHINE DIV20 MODEL 385. 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE SWING TO CHECK: IF THE NEEDLE BAR MOVES SIDEWISE WHILE THE NEEDLE IS IN THE FABRIC IN ZIGZAG STITCHING, ADJUST IT AS FOLLOWS: (filE NEEDLE SHOULD START SWINGING WHEN 2 (0,08") TO 3MM (012") ABOVE THE...

  • Page 16: Straight Stitching

    SEWING MACHINE DIV,20 MODEL 385, 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRAIGHT STITCHING TO CHECK: SETTHE STITCHWIDTH DIAL AT" 0 * AND THESTITCHSELECTORAT > TURN THE HAND WHEEL BY HAND, THE NEEDLE SHOULD NOT SWING SIDE TO SIDE AT THIS SETTING, WIDTH SELECTEDPATrERN STITCHWIDTH DIAL...

  • Page 17: Straight Stitching

    SEWING MACHINE DIVe20 MODEL 3 85,18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRAIGHT STITCHING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVE THETOP COVER. (SEE P.6) LOOSEN SETSCREW (A). MOVE THE ZIGZAG WIDTH ROD (B) UNTIL THE NEEDLE CEASES ITS ZIGZAG MOVEMENT WHEN YOU TURN THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU, TIGHTEN SETSCREW (A) SECURELY.

  • Page 18: Distributionof Needle Swing

    SEWING MACHINE D iV,20 MODEL 3 85.18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLE SWING TO CHECK: SETTHE STITCHWIDTH DIAL TO" 0" AND THE STITCHSELECTORAT RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION. DROP THE FEEDDOGS, PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATEAND LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT, LOWER THE NEEDLE TO MARK NEEDLE POINT (A) ON A PIECE OF PAPER BY TURNING HAND WHEEL, RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION...

  • Page 19: Distributionof Needle Swing

    SEWING MACHINE DtV.20 MODEL 385, ]8630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLE SWING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: OPEN THE FACE COVER AND LOOSEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW (D)_ MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER (E) EITHER DIRECTION UNTIL THE DISTANCES A TO B AND A TO C BECOME EQUAL. TIGHTEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW (D) SECURELY,...

  • Page 20: Stretch Stitchbalance

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRETCH STITCH BALANCE TO CHECK: STITCH LENGTH DIAL AT STRE'rCH STITCH I. SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AND STRETCHSTITCHADJUSTER AT ,-91, PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AND LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT, TURN THE HAND WHEEL TO MARK NEEDLE POINTS ON THE PAPER.
  • Page 21 SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT STRETCH STITCH BALANCE ADJUSTMEN1 PROCEDURE: REMOVE THE CAP (F). IF THE REVERSE STITCH LENGTH (B) IS SHORTER THAN THE FORWARD STITCH LENGTH (A), TURN THE ADJUSTING SETSCREW (E) IN THE DIRECTION OF ((3). IF THE REVERSE STITCH LENGTH (B) IS LONGER THAN THE FORWARD STITCH...

  • Page 22: Feed Dog Height

    SEWING MACHINE DIV20 MODEL385. 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT FEED DOG HEIGHT TO CHECK: SET THE STITCH LENGTH DIAL AT 4 AND RAISE '[HE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION. RAISETHE PRESSER FOOT AND PLACE THE FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE (-#68496) ON THE NEEDLE PLATE.

  • Page 23: Feed Dog Height

    SEWING MACHINE DIV+20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT FEED DOG HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVE THE BED COVER, LOOSEN THE NUT ( A ) AND THE SETSCREW ( B ) TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW ( C ) IN THE DIRECTION OF ( D ) WHEN THE FEED DOG HEIGHT ISLOW OR IN THE DIRECTION OF (E) WHEN THE FEED DOG HEIGHT IS HIGH,, TIGHTEN THE NUT ( A ) AND THE SETSCREW ( B ) SECURELY.

  • Page 24: Needle Bar Height

    SEWING MACHINE DfV,20 MODEL 385, 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT MACHINE SETTING: SETTHE STITCHSELECTORAT _ , ZIG ZAG WIDTH AT "6_5_ _ PREPARATION: REMOVE THE NEEDLE, PRESSER FOOT, NEEDLE PLATE (A) AND BOBBIN HOLDER (B) INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE :fl_8497 (C) ONTO THE HOOK, 3_ ATTACH THE NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT GAUGE #68168 (D), * PUSH ITUP UNTIL ITSTOPS.
  • Page 25 SEWING MACHINE DIV,20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE BAR HEIGH'I' ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: OPEN THE FACE COVER. LOOSEN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW ( M ) ON THE NEEDLE BAR HOLDER ( L ), MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR ( F ) UP OR DOWN TO ADJUST THE POSITION OF THE NEEDLE BAR (F) SO THAT THE FACE OF FINGER (G) HITSTHESIDE OF PIN ( H ) AND THE END OF PIN ( I ) TOUCHES THE SURFACE OF GAUGE (K)

  • Page 26: Needle To Shui-Rle T Iming

    SEWING MACHINE DIV,20 MODEL 385. 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE TO SHUTTLE TIMING SETTHE STITCHSELECTORAT _ , ZIG ZAG WIDTH AT "6.5." PREPARATION: REMOVE THE NEEDLE, PRESSER FOOT, NEEDLE PLATE ( A ) AND BOBBIN HOLDER (B), INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68497 ( C ) SO THAT THE SMALL FINGER ON THE GAUGE FITS INTO THE SLOT NEAR THE TIP OF THE HOOK.
  • Page 27 SEWING MACHINE DIV,20 MODEL 3 85,18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE TO SHUTTLE TIMING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: I. REMOVE THE BED COVER. (SEEP.7) 2, TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR REACHES THE LOWEST POSITION. 3, LOOSEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWS (G) AND (H). 4, HOLD THE HANDWHEEL.

  • Page 28: Needle Clearance To Shuttle

    SEWING MACHINE D1V.20 MODEL 385. 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE CLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE TO CHECK: I. SETTHE STITCHSELECTOR AT 2. REPLACE THE NEEDLE WITH THE TEST PIN #68368 (A), 2. TURN THE HAND WHEEL SLOWLY BY HAND UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR REACHES LOWEST POSITION.

  • Page 29: Backlash (Lower Shaft Gear)

    SEWING MACHINE D IV20 MODEL 3 85,18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BACKLASH ( LOWER SHAFT GEAR ) TO CHECK: REMOVE THE NEEDLE PLATE AND BOBBIN HOLDER, TURN THE HAND WHEEL SLOWLY TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE TIP OF THE SHUTTLE HOOK (A) IS BETWEEN BOTH ENDS (B) OF THE FEED DOG ROTATE THE HOOK RACE CLOCKWISE AND COINTER CLOCKWISE BY HAND AND CHECK THE PLAY.

  • Page 30: Bui-Ronhole Stitchbalance

    SEWING MACHINE DIVe20 MODEL 385, 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE STITCH BALANCE TO CHECK: I. SET THE MACHINE AS FOLLOWS: STITCH SELECTOR ..STITCH LENGTH DIAL ..BLUE ZONE STITCHWIDTH DIAL....2. ATTACH THE AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT, 3. SEW BUI_ONHOLE CHECK THE STITCH BALANCE BETWEEN THE RIGHT SIDE...
  • Page 31 SEWING MACHINE DIV20 MODEL 3 85 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE STITCH BALANCE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: 1_ REMOVETHE BED COVER. (SEE P,7) LOOSEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW (A)_ IF THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE BUTTONHOLE IS TOO SPARSE, TURN THE RING (B) IN THE DIRECTION OF (C), IF THE LEFT SIDE OF THE BUTTONHOLE IS TOO SPARSE, TURN THE RING (B) IN THE DIRECTION OF (D).

  • Page 32: Needle Position

    SEWING MACHINE DIV20 MODEL 385 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE POSITION TO CHECK: SETTHE MACHINE AS FOLLOWS: STITCH SELECTOR....-V-A-V J STITCHWIDTH DIAL ..... 6,5 TURN THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE COMES TO CENTER POSITION, THE NEEDLE SHOULD NOT MOVE WHEN YOU TURN THE STITCHWIDTH DIAL TO" 0 ", WIDTH WIDTH STITCHWIDTH DIAL...

  • Page 33: Needle Position

    SEWING MACHINE DIV,20 MODEL 385, 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE POSITION ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVE THETOP COVER (SEEP_6) TURN THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU UNTIL THE NEEDLE COMES TO THE CENTER OF THE SLIT IN THE NEEDLE PLATE. LOOSEN SETSCREWS (A) AND (B)_ TIGHTENSETSCREW (A) SLIGHTLY 5_ MOVE THE PLATE (C) TO EITHER DIRECTION AS SHOWN BY THE ARROW UNTIL THE NEEDLE CEASES MOVEMENT.

  • Page 34: Zero Feeding

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT ZERO FEEDING TO CHECK: SETTHE STITCHSELECTORTO AND THE STITCHLENGTH DIAL TO "0." PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE, CHECK IF THE PAPER MOVES FORWARD OR BACKWARD WHEN YOU TURN THE...

  • Page 35: Zero Feeding

    SEWING MACHINE DIV,20 MODEL 3 85_ 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT ZERO FEEDING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVETHE BELTCOVER (SEE P8) SETTHE STITCHSELECTORAT _=_ AND THE STITCHLENGTH DIAL AT" 0 ", PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE IF THE PAPER MOVES FORWARD, TURN ADJUSTING SCREW (C) IN DIRECTION (A). IF THE PAPER MOVES BACKWARD, TURN ADJUSTING SCREW (C) IN DIRECTION (B), FORWARD BACKWARD...

  • Page 36: Basic Needleposition

    SEWING MACHINE DIV20 MODEL 385. 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BASIC NEEDLEPOSITION * IF THE LEFTNEEDLE POSITION IN MAXIMUM ZIGZAG AND IN STRAIGHTSEWING IS NOT THESAME, ADJUST AS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: I_ REMOVE THE BELTCOVER (SEEP.8) SELECTTHE LEFTNEEDLE POSITION IN MAXIMUM ZIG ZAG_ THEN SELECT THE LEFTNEEDLE POSITION STRAIGHT SEWING.

  • Page 37: Buttonhole Function (I)

    SEWING MACHINE DIV20 MODEL 3 85 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLEFUNCTION (1) * A BUTTONHOLE SEWN WITH THE AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT WILL BE 3MM (0,12") LONGER THAN THE ACTUAL BUTTON, THE LENGTH CAN BE ADJUSTED AS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: LOWER THE FEED DOG AND ATTACH FOOT R, THEN LOWER THE PRESSER BAR, LOOSEN SETSCREW (A)o PULL DOWN THE BH LEVERUNTIL IT TOUCHES FOOT R, AND BAR (IS)HITSTHE FRONT BASE PLATE.
  • Page 38 SEWING MACHINE DIV20 MODEL 385, 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLEFUNCTION (2) * IF THE BAR TACK ON THE BUTTONHOLE OCCURS TOO EARLY, OR IF NO BAR TACK IS SEWN AT ALL, ADJUST AS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENTPROCEDURE: REMOVE THE BELTCOVER (SEE E8) (A) IF BAR TACK IS SEWN TOO SOON, TURN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW (E) IN DIRECTION (C).

  • Page 39: Motor Belttension

    SEWING MACHINE DIV20 MODEL 385_ 18630890 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT MOTOR BELT TENSION TO CHECK: IF THE MOTOR BELT TENSION IS TOO TIGHT OR TOO LOOSE, IT MAY CAUSE BELT NOISE. ALSO, A TOO TIGHT BELTTENSION CAN CAUSE THE MACHINE TO RUN SLOW AND WILL OVERLOAD THE MOTOR.

  • Page 40: Replacing The Indicator Plate

    SEWING MACHINE DIV,20 MODEL 385. 18630890 REPLACING THE INDICATOR PLATE * WHEN YOU REPLACE THE EACH INDICATOR PLATE, DO AS FOLLOWS: REMOVE THE FRONT COVER, (.SEEP,9) REMOVE THESETSCREW (A), THEN REPLACE THE INDICATOR PLATE. MATCH THE CENTER OF THE ARCING HOLE OF THE INDICATOR PLATETO THE PIN AND SCREW HOLE IN THE BASE PLATE, ATTACH THE PLATE HOLDER (.B)AND REPLACE THE SCREW,...

  • Page 41: Oiling

    SEWING MACHINE DIV20 MODEL 385 18630890 OILING FACTORY LUBRICATED PARTS WILL PROVIDE YEARS OF HOUSEHOLD SEWING WITHOUT ROUTINE OILING, BUT YOU SHOULD STILL CHECK FOR POSSIBLE LUBRICATION NEEDS WHENEVER SERVICING MACHINES. OIL.* USE GOOD QUALITY SEWING MACHINE OIL AT THE POINTS (A, B. C, D, E, F & G) INDICATED BY 'THEBLACK ARROWS GREASE: USEWHITE GREASE SUCH AS MOLYCOTE...

  • Page 42: Wiring Of Terminal Block

    SEWING MACHINE DIV,20 MODEL 3 85 18630890 WIRING OF TERMINAL BLOCK RIDGE L : LAMP M : MOTOR S: SPEED RANGE SWITCH...

  • Page 43: Special Tools Required

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 3 85.18630890 SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE #68496 _RIVER NEEDLE HEIGHT GAUGE #68 t68 PHILLIPSSCREW DRIVER TEST PIN #68368 _RfVER RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68497 RADIAL TIMING GAUGE SHEET #U1369C WRENCH...

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