Horizontal Welding; Overhead Welding - Craftsman 113.201892 Owner's Manual

UNDERCUT
OVER-LAPFED
_gure 13
Figure 14
BACK-UP STRIP
Figure ]5 Figure 16
Figure I7
HORIZONTAL WELDING
Horizontal welding refers to one type of butt weld between
two plates in a vertical plane. For practice, set up a plate
as for vertical welding and run straight beads across from
left to right (fig. 12). Use the some current settings as for
vertical-down welding and hold the rod as indicated with
a short arc. Move the rod in a straight line and deposit
a light bead. The rate of travel will depend upon the current
used. Too slow a travel will cause the bead to sag (fig. 13).
Practice with 3/32, 1/8 and 5/32-inch rods until a weft
formed bead can be macle with each size rod (fig. 14).
Sheet metal up to 1/16-inch thick con be butt welded from
one side. If the seam has numerous gaps, use a back-up
strip, allowing a slight gap between edges of 1/8-inch
thick metal and weld from both sides (fig. 15). All metal
3/16-inch thick and over should be beveled and welded
with a number of passes (fig. 16). Thoroughly clean each
bead before laying the next and use higher current than
for single-pass welching.
The appearance of a multiple-pass horizontal weld can be
improved by vertical down beads laid closely together.
Use a swift circular motion to the right; stowly downward
while welding (fig. 17).
OVERHEAD WELDING
Although overhead welding is generally considered diffi-
cult, do not become discouraged, as it is being done every
day by people who have taught themselves. Once the art
of maintaining a short arc has been mastered, the rest
will be easy.
Since there will be a shower of sparks, wear a leather jacket,
tight fitting cap and ear plugs and keep the practice plate
slightly higher than the top of your head when standing. To
keep sparks out of your glove, grasp the electrode holder as
indicated in figure 18 and hold the rod in a nearly vertical
position with a slight tilt to the right. Drape the cable over
your shoulder so its weight will not interfere with the use
of the electrode. Use 1/8-inch rods and a current setting the
same as for vertical welding, and move the rod in a straight
line without any weaving or whippir_g motions. A
reasonably fast rate of travel must be used_ to prevent the
bead from sagging and undercutting along the edges. Vary
the rate of travel and notice its effect on the size and
appearance of the weld. When you feel you can run a
satisfactory bead, try the side-to-side weaving motion and
deposit a thin weld approximately 3/4-i:nch wide. The
movement must be somewhat faster than for other
positions to keep the bead from sagging. (This method of
weaving is used only for the last pass on heavy welds where
improved appearance is necessary,)
The whipping motion is used where a gap exists between
the plates as it provides better penetration with higher
welding current. For practice work, set up two plates ap-
proximately 1/8-inch thick, allow|ng a gap between them.
Burn in deep for good penetration with 1/8 and 5!32qnch
rods, varying the plate size and gap distances.
Figure 18
Figure 19
Fillet welds for tap or tee-joints are most common in the
overhead position. Tack-weld two pieces of scrap iron
together to form a tee-ioint, and clamp in the overhec_d
position so one plate is held vertically (fig. 19). Hotd the
rod at angles indicated and deposit a [ight bead from left
to right without weaving or whipping movements. A slightly
higher current than used for overhead butt welds will be
necessary to get good penetration at the root of the weld.
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